I reasearched the site, googled, & youtubed where to hook up the hoist on the 5vzfe engine but didnt find anything. I also did not know where on my engine to attatch the hoist and felt it would be just as risky improperly using a hoist vs a floor jack from underneath. I ended up using a floor jack and a 4x4 block of wood that was about 6" in length b/c I wasn't able to get access to an engine lift. Installation of driver & passenger side engine mounts: Dynamic damper for transfer case: 3318335050 Transmission mount bolts, total of 4: 9011908B75 Engine mount bolts, total of 4 (2 bolts per side): 9011910811 (nuts not included) Right & left engine mounts 1336162160 (same mount for both sides) Part numbers for Engine/transmssion mounts: What I thought was a 2nd trans mount was actually the dynamic damper for the transfer case. 2 in the engine bay and 1 for the transmission. The DIY link is no longer valid so I did a little google research on replacing motor mounts & got some advice from members and gave it a shot. It sucks to have to consider junking a 12 year old vehicle that, except for the frame, is still in very good condition.After changing out all my old suspension parts, steering components, bushings, etc & noticing progressive improvements in ride quality & handling, I wanted to change out my engine/trans mounts & dynamic damper for the transfer case. I can replace transmission/brake lines fairly easily, at an acceptable cost. But the amount of frame failures is another thing. Given the level of corrosion enhancing materials that are present every winter to attack our northern vehicles, I can live with the transmission/brake line failures. And I do understand that every potential problem area that is addressed has a cost associated to it. As the BMW tech noted, the covers do afford a degree of protection, but they also prevent an underbody/spray wash from rinsing the area clean. I understand that one might think the underbody covers would help shield the lines and other parts form salt spray, but the line that failed was under the driver side seat, well within the 'protected' area. But as long as everybody uses much cheaper coated steel lines, it's a tough sell, because where do you stop? You add $50 to the cost in 20 areas, and now we're starting to make a big change to the price of the vehicle. For another $50 per car, they could go with a Cu-Ni-Fe brake line and not have corrosion issues with it. Most trucks/BOF SUVs have similar issues for similar reasons.īut cost is one of the reasons. The difference between your X5 and the 4Runner is probably 95% down to having the underbody and wheelwells sealed much better to avoid the salt spray situation on most components in the first place.Ī BOF design like the 4Runner doesn't really lend itself to enclosing things off like you can in a unibody design. You can't design enough cathodic protection into something like a brake or transmission line to make a difference in long term corrosion resistance in a salt/oxygen rich environment. Toyota cut corners, IMHO, for cost reasons and we are suffering the results. But, they learned their lesson, and subsequent vehicles were a lot less prone to rust damage. Honda went through a series of recalls to repair/replace damaged components for a few years. I worked as a Tech at a Honda Dealership in the early 80's, and Honda had a Major rust problem with frames and suspension components back then. Given the documented problems with Sequoia's, Tundras, Tacomas, and what others have reported about their 4Runners, it appears, IMHO, that Toyota design wasn't prepared to deal with the winter conditions in the North. No other BMW's of that vintage have this level of rust damage. And, the brake line failure is because of a specific part failure that only the X5's use. My wife has an '02 X5, with 142k, and with the exception of one brake line rust failure, is in way better shape than either of my 4Runners. But, the amount of rust damage I have seen on both my 4Runners is way more than any of the other vehicles I have owned in the past. I am fully aware of the issue with the use of road salt in the Northeast. It might be worth it to go with aftermarket stuff like PTFE AN hose, or even brass fittings to rubber lines the whole way. I'm pretty sure any vehicle dunked in salt for 12+ years is not going to come out the other end without corrosion issues.
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